Tides

Tides are the alternate rise and fall of the ocean’s water,
which is most noticeable along shorelines. The intertidal zone is
that part of the shoreline where the tidal water moves from its
normal lowest to its normal highest levels. This is average low or
mean low tide (MLT) and mean high tide (MHT).
Tides are due to the gravitational
attraction of the moon and the sun upon the oceans. The moon’s
gravitational forces and the earth’s centrifugal forces tend to move
the water towards two points, or tidal bulges, one immediately below
the moon and one in the same line on the opposite side of the
earth. Low tides would be halfway between the tidal bulges. During
the earth’s rotation the tidal bulges would remain stationary
relative to the moon. At any point on the earth’s surface there
would be a diurnal cycle of alternate high tide, low tide, high tide
and low tide within the period of the lunar day which is 24 hours 50
minutes. The lunar effect on the tides varies slightly from one day
to the next due to changes in the declination of the moon and its
position in its elliptical orbit.
The
sun’s effect on the tides is less than the moon’s because of its
greater distance from the earth. When the moon is in its new moon
and full moon phases, the pull of the sun is in nearly the same line
as that of the moon. The combined pull of the sun and moon causes
especially high and low tides known as spring tides. At the moon's
first quarter and third quarter the sun pulls at right angles to the
moon reducing the tidal bulges. During this part of the cycle the
differences between high and low tides are reduced and the tides are
referred to as neap tides. The height of the tides varies daily
with the phases of the moon, spring and neap tides each recurring
twice in every 28-day lunar cycle.
Many complexities of tidal behavior
arise because the oceans are broken up by landmasses. Along the
shoreline the extent of tidal movement is determined partly by the
shape of the coastline. In tapering channels, where the tide enters
a wide mouth and moves toward converging coastlines, the height of
the tide is increased by the constriction of the water between
opposite shores. Such conditions exist in Long Island Sound and
result in higher tides (by about 1.5m) in the western end of the
Sound compared to the more open waters at the eastern end.
Strong
on-shore winds during storms can pile the water up along the coast
and result in extremely high tides. Tides can rise as much as 1-3
meters higher during strong winds. These unusually high tides are
known as storm tides.
At
low tide depressions in the sediments and rocks can retain water.
These are known as tide pools. They can provide a significant
refuge for sensitive species during low tide.
|